Overview

Introduction

We can't confirm or deny the incident, but if aliens did crash their UFO in Roswell, they certainly picked the right state: New Mexico is knee-deep in the mystical and the mysterious. Disappearing civilizations, secret atomic test sites, Native American healers, divine dirt and miraculous staircases are just some of the things you'll find that are hard to explain.

The unknowable can be fun, but it's only a part of New Mexico's allure. Whether or not they hold powerful energy vortexes, the mountains and desert are beautiful to look at and thrilling to hike, bike, ski or raft through. Whether or not Pueblo people have the remedy for the ills of civilization, their art is engaging and their communities fascinating. We think you'll have a completely enjoyable time taking New Mexico's scenery and activities at face value. If you happen to gain some spiritual insight (or meet an alien) along the way, so much the better.

Geography

History

One of New Mexico's oldest mysteries is the fate of the Ancestral Pueblo people (sometimes called the Anasazi, although that term has fallen out of favor), who developed an advanced civilization beginning about AD 800. Their famous multitiered adobe dwellings housed as many as 1,500 people, and some were constructed in breathtaking settings atop cliffs and mesas. (You can see several of these structures at Chaco Canyon and Bandelier National Monument, among other places). Yet by about 1200, their dwellings were abandoned. Various explanations have been offered for the sudden end of the Ancestral Pueblo culture, including drought, warfare among communities and the rise of a new religion.

When the Spanish explorer Coronado first came through the region in 1540, he found sizable communities dispersed along the upper Rio Grande. The inhabitants of these settlements likely were the descendants of the Ancestral Puebloans. Spain's first settlement, at San Juan Pueblo in 1598, was followed 12 years later by the founding of Santa Fe. From the outset, relations between the colonists and the Native Americans were strained and, at times, brutal and bloody. In 1680, the oppressed pueblos staged a successful revolt. Although the Spanish would eventually regain control, the pueblo uprising was one of the most substantial resistance movements among Native Americans. It deterred Spanish colonization for 12 years.

The Spanish territory became a possession of newly independent Mexico in 1821 and was passed to the U.S. after the Mexican-American War. New Mexico grew more slowly than other western U.S. territories (it didn't become a state until 1912), but the discovery of uranium and other energy resources stimulated growth and revenue for the state and gave it a prominent place in the nuclear age.

As with other major cities in the Southwest, Albuquerque has grown steadily in the past 30 years, while Santa Fe and other mountain areas have become popular travel and retirement destinations. Down south, the climate and border location of Las Cruces make it a popular choice for both retirees and new businesses. The state continues to attract investment attention, with moviemakers focusing on the mountains and cities of New Mexico because of tax breaks and other incentives. Aviation, technology and increasing trade with Mexico are all part of New Mexico's modern mix.

Snapshot

New Mexico's main attractions include Native American and Hispanic culture, adobe architecture, spectacular mountain and desert scenery, festivals (celebrating everything from hot-air balloons to grand opera to folk art), Santa Fe, art galleries, Carlsbad Caverns, ghost towns, Taos, Native American pueblos, ancient ruins, Albuquerque, casino gambling, skiing and distinctively spicy cuisine (often made with green and red chilies).

New Mexico will satisfy any traveler interested in the Southwest. An American locale with European and Native American roots, the state gives tourists a sense of place and community lacking in many other parts of the U.S. Those who are looking for watersports, big-city entertainment or short drive times between attractions may find the state less to their liking.

Potpourri

If you want to ride a steam train through beautiful alpine scenery, make reservations for the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad from Chama, New Mexico, to Antonito, Colorado. It has been called the most spectacular mountain railroad in North America. The line operates late May-late October, with occasional rides in wintry December.

New Mexico is the oldest wine-growing region in the U.S. and has 21 vineyards and wineries. Many offer tours and tastings. We're especially fond of a sparkling wine made in Albuquerque called Gruet.

Drive about 50 mi/80 km west of Socorro on Highway 60, and you'll see the shape of a large "Y" in the far distance. It's the Very Large Array (VLA) Radio Telescope: Some 27 huge dish antennas (each of them 82 ft/25 m in diameter) lined up across the desert. (It was seen in the film Contact, starring Jodie Foster.) The telescope is used to photograph distant galaxies. A visitors center is open at the site, and tours are available.

Lew Wallace, author of Ben Hur, was once New Mexico's territorial governor.

Truth or Consequences, New Mexico, is the only town in the U.S. named after a game show. Its name was officially changed in the 1950s as part of a publicity stunt that benefited both the TV show and the town.

The Lightning Field, in southwestern New Mexico, is an internationally recognized piece of art by sculptor Walter de Maria. Viewing its gridlike pattern (advance reservations and an overnight stay are required) amid a vast expanse of sky can be life-changing.

Smokey the Bear was New Mexican, found as a cub in 1950 after a forest fire in the Capitan Gap. He later lived at the National Zoo in Washington, D.C., and became the beloved firefighting symbol of schoolchildren across the U.S. He died in 1976 and is buried near Capitan.

New Mexico's second and final statue for U.S. Statuary Hall, is of Pope (pronounced poh-pay), who led the successful Pueblo Revolt in 1680.

Virgin Galactic and New Mexico have teamed up to build a Spaceport near Alamogordo.

New Mexico Gov. Bill Richardson holds the world record for most hands shaken in a day: 13,392.

Overview

Introduction

No trip to New Mexico is complete without a visit to at least one of the state's 19 Native American pueblos. Although they are centuries-old dwelling sites, they are also modern communities whose residents deal with modern issues. One of those issues is gambling: In addition to the attractions that focus on traditional culture, many of the pueblos operate gaming casinos—complete with entertainment and high-stakes play.

Perhaps the best introduction to the pueblos can be found at two of the state's better museums, the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center in Albuquerque and the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture in Santa Fe (the majority of pueblos are fairly close to these two major cities). Both museums will give you a good introduction to pueblo beliefs and history, as well as demonstrate the varied craftsmanship of both ancient and modern Native Americans.

One of the more fascinating aspects of visiting the pueblos is learning about the particular traditions that have shaped the techniques and styles of local craftwork. If you can visit a pueblo on its feast day (usually tied to a Catholic saint—a remnant of Spanish colonialism), the dances and ceremonies will only heighten your appreciation of the communities.

In addition to the Acoma and Taos pueblos, consider the following:

Cochiti, southwest of Santa Fe, is famed for finely crafted ceremonial drums and "storyteller" figurines. Don't miss the Tent Rocks, a spectacular canyon and geological formation near the pueblo. Its feast day is that of San Buenaventura, held on 14 July.

Isleta, just south of Albuquerque, is the largest of the Tiwa-speaking pueblos. The feast days of St. Augustine are celebrated there on 28 August and 4 September.

Jemez, northwest of Albuquerque, is the only tribe that still speaks the Towa language. You'll find a number of recreational areas open to the public, as well as offerings in sculpture and polychrome pottery. The Feast of Our Lady of the Angels is held on 2 August.

Laguna, on the eastern border of the Acoma reservation, is actually six villages where residents produce pottery resembling that of the Acoma Pueblo. The feast of St. Joseph is observed on 19 September.

Nambe, north of Santa Fe, is known for its exquisite jewelry, employing turquoise and silver, but you'll also find sculpture, beadwork and micaceous pottery (containing flecks of mica that cause the pottery to glitter in the light). Nambe celebrates the Feast of St. Francis on 4 October.

Picuris, southwest of Taos, was a hotbed of resistance during the pueblo revolt of the 1600s. Today, it's known for its micaceous pottery. The Mission of San Lorenzo, whose feast day is celebrated on 10 August, is located there.

The craftspeople of Pojoaque, northwest of Santa Fe, produce pottery, embroidery, jewelry and beadwork. The Poeh Cultural Center in Pojoaque tells the story of the Rio Grande Pueblos. They celebrate the Feast of Our Lady of Guadalupe on 12 December. The Poeh Museum features the story of the Native world from the Native American perspective in one of the few tribal-run museums in the country.

Sandia, just north of Albuquerque, operates the Bien Mur Indian Market Center, one of the better places to shop for Native American crafts in New Mexico. The Feast of St. Anthony is held on 13 June.

San Felipe, which is north of Albuquerque, produces fine beadwork and heishi (jewelry made from strings of small tiles of semiprecious gems). The feast day of St. Phillip is celebrated on 1 May.

San Ildefonso, northwest of Santa Fe, is a complex of some 200 buildings, including a reconstructed church from the 1600s. This pueblo was the home of Maria and Julian Martinez, who were famous for their rendering of the distinctive black-on-black pottery. (The Martinez family continues the tradition.) The Feast of San Ildefonso occurs on 23 January.

Among the 700-year-old buildings of San Juan, also northwest of Santa Fe, you'll find the headquarters of the Eight Northern Indian Pueblos Council, which includes Nambe, Picuris, Pojoaque, San Ildefonso, San Juan, Santa Clara, Taos and Tesuque. The council publishes an excellent guide to the northern pueblos (write ENIPC, P.O. Box 969, San Juan Pueblo, NM 87566). It's home to the O'ke-Oweenge Crafts Cooperative, featuring crafts from each of the eight pueblos (San Juan itself is known for redware pottery). The Feast of San Juan is held on 24 June.

Santa Ana Pueblo is known not only for its polychrome pottery but also for the recreational offerings available at the Santa Ana Golf Course and Jemez Canyon Dam. The pueblo itself is open to the public only a few days each year—one of the best times to visit is on the Feast of Santa Ana—26 July.

Santa Clara, another of the northern pueblos, is known for both black-on-black and redware pottery. The Santa Clara Recreation Area (with streams, lakes and trails) and the impressive Puye Cliff Dwellings, which date back to AD 1250, also are nearby. The cliff dwellings are a national landmark owned and maintained by the pueblo: You can explore dwellings both along and atop a cliff face. Self-guided tours are available, and in summer, you can take guided tours that include a pueblo feast (book at least five days in advance). The Feast of St. Claire is on 12 August.

Santo Domingo, north of Albuquerque, is known for jewelry, silverwork and heishi. Its feast day is held on 4 August. It also hosts a popular arts-and-crafts festival on Labor Day weekend.

Tesuque is the smallest of the villages where the Tewa language is spoken. It is located just outside Santa Fe. The craftspeople there are known for rain-god figurines, micaceous pottery, sculpture and painting. The Feast of San Diego is celebrated in Tesuque on 12 November.

The traditions of Zia Pueblo have contributed to the state's symbol, the stylized sun you'll see all over New Mexico. Zia is also known for its polychrome pottery. The Feast of Our Lady of the Assumption is held on 15 August.

The original Zuni Pueblo was the largest in the region when the Spanish arrived, and its size probably helped inspire the myth of the fabled Seven Cities of Cibola—the tale that inspired Francisco Coronado to explore the area. The inhabitants abandoned their original pueblo in 1670, but you can still visit it with a Zuni guide. Today, the Zuni people are known for stonework, jewelry, needlepoint and fetishes (animals carved out of stone and semiprecious gems). Shalako, the most important Zuni feast, occurs in late November-early December.

Other Native American groups in New Mexico include the Jicarilla Apache of northern New Mexico, who are highly regarded for their basketry and beadwork; the Mescalero Apache of southern New Mexico, who own and operate the Ski Apache ski area and the Inn of the Mountain Gods resort near Ruidoso; and the Navajo people, famous for their rugs and silverwork.

Please remember that the pueblos are not theme parks or living-history museums—they are real communities, where families live and work. Their requests for a few basic standards of behavior are reasonable and easily observed. Do not photograph or videotape residents of the pueblos unless you have first obtained permission from the pueblo's administrative offices. There is sometimes a small fee involved. There may be certain ceremonial occasions when cameras (even sketchbooks) are not allowed at all. It's a good idea to call in advance of your visit to confirm the hours that the pueblo is open to visitors: They sometimes close for special religious occasions or for funerals of tribal members, and most ask visitors to leave by around sund